Rise of smoky wine? How California wildfires could yield new trend among connoisseurs

CORVALLIS, Ore. — In the wine industry, smoke exposure from wildfires has traditionally spelled disaster for vineyards. But what if smoke-affected wines aren’t necessarily ruined? While winemakers have long considered it a death sentence for their vintages, a new study reveals that certain wine drinkers not only tolerate but actively enjoy the characteristics that smoke imparts to wine, especially when they know what they’re drinking.

When smoke from wildfires drifts through vineyards, grapevines absorb compounds that can create distinct flavors in the resulting wines. These smoky characteristics range from subtle to intense, sometimes accompanied by ashy aftertastes or a drying sensation in the mouth. While some wines naturally develop smoky notes through aging in oak barrels, a desirable trait in many fine wines, wildfire smoke can introduce more intense or unexpected smoky qualities.

A study published in Food Research International reveals that many wine drinkers don’t necessarily reject smoke-impacted wines outright. Following the 2020 wildfires on the West Coast of the U.S. alone, the wine industry faced estimated losses of up to $3.7 billion. This economic reality has spurred major research initiatives, including a $7.65 million grant from the U.S. Department of Agriculture to study smoke’s impact on wine.

The research, conducted in New Zealand, identified distinct groups of consumers with markedly different responses to these wines, suggesting that smoke impact might not be the universal flaw it was once considered. Working with 197 wine enthusiasts from New Zealand, researchers explored how different people respond to smoke-impacted pinot noir wines.

First, participants tasted various blends of smoke-affected and non-affected wines without knowing what they were drinking. Then, they tasted the same smoke-impacted wine presented under different label concepts, allowing researchers to understand how marketing might influence perception.

The study identified two clear consumer groups with distinctly different preferences. The “smoke-likers” group, comprising 110 participants, rated these wines remarkably high, with an average score of 6.86 out of 9 points. The “smoke-dislikers” group of 87 participants initially rated the wines much lower, around 3.26 points. However, when the same wines were presented with labels rather than served blind, the smoke-dislikers’ ratings jumped to more than 5 points.

“Our findings indicate that there is more forgiveness among consumers for these smokey wines than winemakers think,” says Elizabeth Tomasino, a professor of enology at Oregon State University, in a statement. “It seems winemakers have a lot more options if they want to sell wine made with these grapes.”

The smoke-likers group reported both higher levels of wine knowledge in surveys and a greater appreciation for smoky flavors in foods and beverages generally. This suggests that someone’s broader flavor preferences and wine expertise might influence their acceptance of smoke-impacted wines.

When researchers presented the same smoke-impacted wine with different label concepts, they found fascinating results. One label concept overtly referenced wildfires with the text “Smoke Stack, experience the 2020 vintage with this unique, lightly smokey wine.” This direct approach, rather than diminishing appeal, actually helped increase acceptance among initially skeptical tasters.

The research team deliberately chose to conduct this study in New Zealand, where the wine industry hasn’t yet experienced significant wildfire impacts. This allowed them to study unbiased consumer responses from people who hadn’t formed preconceptions about smoke-impacted wines. Future research will compare these findings with tasting panels in Oregon and Ohio to build a more complete picture of consumer preferences across different regions.

For winemakers facing increasing wildfire threats, these insights point to several practical solutions. Beyond thoughtful labeling and marketing approaches, traditional techniques like blending, mixing smoke-impacted wines with non-impacted wines, could help create marketable products that appeal to different consumer preferences. The research suggests that complete transparency about smoke impact, when presented thoughtfully, might actually enhance consumer acceptance rather than deter it.

The findings have significant implications for the global wine industry as climate change increases wildfire risks in wine regions worldwide. Regions previously unaffected by wildfires are beginning to face this challenge, making it crucial to understand how consumers respond to smoke-impacted wines. In New Zealand alone, wildfire damage currently causes about $150 million in annual losses, with projections suggesting this could rise to over $550 million by 2050.

This research could reshape how the wine industry approaches smoke impact. Rather than automatically considering smoke exposure a complete loss, producers might explore ways to work with these characteristics. Some wines already celebrated for their smoky qualities, like certain burgundy Chablis and Australian chardonnays, demonstrate that smokiness itself isn’t inherently negative; it’s all about context and presentation.

The study also revealed interesting patterns in how wine knowledge influences acceptance. The smoke-liking group demonstrated significantly higher subjective wine knowledge, suggesting that more experienced wine drinkers might be more open to unique or unexpected characteristics in their wines.

This research suggests that consumers’ preconceptions about smoke-impacted wines might be worth reconsidering. Just as wine enthusiasts learn to appreciate various styles and characteristics, the smoke impact might represent another dimension of wine’s complexity rather than an automatic flaw.

Looking ahead, this research opens new avenues for both wine producers and consumers. With consumer groups showing distinct preferences and labeling strategies demonstrating measurable effects on acceptance, winemakers have more options than previously thought for handling smoke-exposed vintages. As climate change continues to affect wine regions globally, these insights could help the industry adapt and evolve, potentially turning what was once considered a crisis into an opportunity for innovation in winemaking and marketing.